Smart Board to make France shine at the Paris Olympics in 2024 in rock climbing

par | Mai 14, 2019

Claire Hellio, Professeure des Universités à l’Université de Bretagne Occidentale (UBO), et Marc Antonini, Directeur de recherche au Laboratoire d’Informatique, Signaux et Systèmes de Sophia Antipolis, ont reçu le 14 novembre la médaille de l’innovation du CNRS.

The SATT Sud-Est transfers "Smart Board", a unique training tool to help France shine at the Paris Olympics in 2024 in rock climbing

Developed in the heart of the calanques on the Luminy campus, this innovation has just won over the French Mountain and Climbing Federation (FFME) to prepare the best French climbers for the Olympic Games. This instrumented and connected training tool, which is unique in the world, offers training programs and follow-up based on scientific research.

SATT Sud-Est announces a license to use a patent, co-owned by Aix-Marseille University and the CNRS, to the French Mountain and Climbing Federation (FFME)

The patented technology has been supported by SATT Sud-Est in a technological development programme, which today makes it possible to transfer a user licence to the FFME and equip the French national team's training centres.

Smart Board in use

Théo RAVANELLO, French Espoir 2017 Champion, using the connected climbing training tool on an exercise to evaluate the strength developed in the fingers and the power of the arms.

Also discover Smart Board in video on YouTube.

"The objective of the Smart Board is to provide climbers with quantified information on their physiological profile, their state of fitness, their qualities and weaknesses to enable them to progress on a scientific and individualized basis. France is thus the first nation to equip itself with a training tool that is essential to our athletes' performance in order to win medals at the Olympics. »

Dr Laurent VIGOUROUX, Inventor and Lecturer at Aix-Marseille University

" Our collaboration with public research has achieved a two-fold objective: to optimize detection and profiling and to use modern and connected methods for the training of our athletes. This project accelerates the improvement of the FFME's training approaches - a lever to go for gold at the next international events. »

Paul DEWILDE, Coach and National Technical Advisor, French Mountain and Climbing Federation

Read other testimonials

With Smart Board, public research is reinventing the practice of rock climbing.

Resulting from the research work of Dr Laurent VIGOUROUX, Senior Lecturer at Aix-Marseille University, expert in biomechanics and hand physiology at the Etienne-Jules MAREY Institute of Movement Sciences (ISM UMR CNRS 7287, member laboratory of the Carnot STAR Institute), the invention is a training grip intended for the practice of climbing for leisure or competition. This grip is instrumented with sensors that measure the climber's action and communicate data to an application. Algorithms based on the scientific research conducted by Dr Laurent VIGOUROUX make it possible to translate this data into useful information for climbers and trainers. Suspension and traction exercises carried out on the Smart Board make it possible to draw up the physiological profile of the athlete (strength, endurance, resistance, power...) and to personalize training sessions. This project, which aims to bring technology closer to an industrial product, is the result of a maturation programme piloted by SATT Sud-Est, with the participation of the Fast_Spor'In industrial sector.

A new approach to training for the FFME

The FFME's objective is to prepare the athletes of the French climbing team to obtain as many medals as possible at the Tokyo Summer Olympic Games in 2020, where climbing will make its big appearance. This collaboration on the Smart Board project has been wished to optimize the detection and profiling system of the athletes, but also to have modern and connected methods for training. This project puts the FFME on the road to rationalizing its training approaches, a good thing in view of the 2024 Paris Games. The French team's two training centres, in Fontainebleau and Voiron, will be equipped with the Smart Board. The FFME is receiving specific funding from the French Ministry of Sport for Innovation in Sport to support this investment.

Founded in 1945, the FFME promotes and develops six sports activities in France: Climbing, Mountaineering, Canyoning, Mountain Hiking, Snowshoeing and Ski-Mountaineering. Chaired by Pierre YOU since 2005, the FFME is a member of the French National Olympic and Sports Committee (CNOSF), the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the International Ski Mountaineering Federation (ISMF). The FFME received a delegation from the Ministry of Health and Sports for four sports activities: Climbing, Canyoning, Snowshoeing and Ski Mountaineering.

Practical information

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